Dovidenja Sarajevo!

Good by to the Sarajevo soccer fans...Turkey didn't win, but they were plucky!

The Economics Department courtyard cafe/bar. They understand what real collegial relationships are built on

My apartment building on Mehmeda Spahe and my 24/7 security detachment

My spot at the American Corner library...everyday at 8:15 sharp! I liked sharing it with the pre-school kids

The eco-friendly and free way to get drinking water

Last Days in Sarajevo

These are the women I've come to know and the colors I will miss.

Saturday in Travnik

Here's the eco friendly solution to refrigerating beer...keep it stored in the stream that flows in the middle of your outdoor cafe!


Travnik is awesome...a fort town, diplomatic center, trading crossroads only 50 miles northwest of Sarajevo. An easy bus ride. It is surrounded by mountains and had an important military role for centuries. John and I walked on the ramparts of the castle on top of the mountain. It's really part of the town, and the view was spectacular. The town was develped in the 1300's and then became part of the Ottomon empire where it became the residence of the Vezirs, the governors of the sultans. I am standing in front of one of the grave markers for a 16th century vezir

Here are the announcements of the bus trip to Mecca for the 2008 Hadz. And on the right is a huge more-or-less classical music concert, Muslim style. The woman on the left is holding a violin, and there is a list of sopranos and tenors listed below. How can you miss??


If beer is too expensive (all of $1 a bottle), there is free water at any mosque

Fighting between Croatian militiamen and units of the mostly Muslim army of the Bosnian Government resumed today near the central Bosnian town of Novi

That was the New York Times headline from June 13, 1993 - 15 years ago. This is what we were reading then...

"Fighting between Croatian militiamen and units of the mostly Muslim army of the Bosnian Government resumed today near the central Bosnian town of Novi Travnik. The fighting came a day after the Bosnian Serbs' military spokesman, Milovan Milutinovic, said that the Serbs would release 900 Croatian militiamen who had surrendered to them last week after being driven from the nearby town of Travnik by the mainly Muslim Bosnian Army forces.

The Serbian spokesman said the Croats would be released with their weapons in exchange for about 1,000 Serbs held by Croats in Livno and Tomislavgrad.

The Bosnian Serbs, who have overrun 70 percent of Bosnia's territory since they started the war here 14 months ago, continued a fierce offensive today against the eastern town of Gorazde, Sarajevo radio reports said. About 60,000 people are trapped in Gorazde, which the United Nations has declared to be a "safe area" along with five other towns but has been unable to protect.

The radio reports from the Bosnian capital said that about 420 people have lost their lives in the two-week Serbian offensive against Gorazde, the last Muslim enclave in eastern Bosnia that the Serbs have not overrun or neutralized, the radio reports said. 57 Killed in Gorazde"

The pre-war Travnik was about ethnically mixed - Croats, Bosnian Muslims, and Serbs were pretty evenly represented. The ethnic cleansing and war changed all that.